Countertops now: what quartz is doing that stone isn't
By Darrin Coffin, President, Sunterra Builders
Published September 29, 2026 · 5 min read
Countertops are where a kitchen budget goes to be noticed, and they are also where the difference between a good job and an ordinary one is decided by things nobody discusses until it is too late to change them. Here is what has actually shifted, and what to ask.
The short version: engineered quartz has taken the default position, the look has gone warm and low-contrast along with everything else in the house, and the fabricator matters more than the brand.
Why quartz keeps winning
Engineered quartz is ground natural quartz bound in resin. That composition is the whole argument.
It is non-porous, which means no sealing, ever. Granite and marble need resealing periodically and people do not do it, then wonder why there is a ring. In a house where a counter takes red wine, lemon and olive oil, that is a real difference over ten years.
It is consistent. What you saw is what arrives. Natural stone varies slab to slab, sometimes considerably, which is either a feature or an unwelcome surprise depending on whether anyone walked you through it.
It is harder to chip at the edges and corners than most natural stone, and the edges and corners are what get hit.
The one place it genuinely loses: heat. Resin scorches. A pan straight off the burner onto quartz can leave a mark that does not come out, where granite would shrug it off — Cambria's own care guidance says plainly that it may not withstand direct heat from pans, griddles, slow cookers or air fryers, and asks for a trivet under all of them. Every quartz kitchen needs trivets and the client needs telling, because "maintenance free" gets heard as "indestructible".
It also cannot go outside. UV breaks the resin down and the colour shifts. For an outdoor kitchen or BBQ island, that means natural stone, porcelain or a product specifically rated for exterior use — not the same slab you used indoors, however much you want the match.
What the current look is
Warm grounds, soft veining, low contrast. The cold white slab with hard black veining that defined the last decade is finished, in exactly the way the grey kitchen around it is finished.
Cambria's four designs released at the end of August are a useful read on the direction, because manufacturers retool after demand moves, not before. Quintessa is a creamy medium-white with sable veins. Merivale is warm white with organic gold. St. Loxley runs soft browns, neutral greens and sandy whites. Wyncrest is ivory and alabaster with champagne veining. Warm, quiet, and none of them trying to be marble from across the room.
The other shift is that veining got more believable. Early quartz marble-lookalikes had veins that stopped at the surface and repeated visibly across a big island. The current generation runs veining through the body of the slab, which means a mitred edge or a waterfall actually continues the pattern instead of revealing the trick.
Tonal is the request now — a counter a step or two off the cabinet rather than in opposition to it, which is why this decision and the cabinet decision belong in the same conversation rather than in sequence. That reads calm, and it also ages better, because high-contrast pairings date as a pairing.
Where natural stone still wins
I am not against natural stone and I install plenty of it.
Heat, as above. If someone genuinely cooks hard and will not use trivets, granite is the honest recommendation.
Outdoors. Granite and porcelain handle our sun; quartz does not.
The top end of the look. Real marble and real quartzite still have a depth that the best quartz approximates rather than matches. If you want Calacatta and you will accept that it etches and patinas, have the marble. Just go in knowing it is a material with a character, not a surface that stays new.
Quartzite specifically deserves a mention — natural, extremely hard, often harder than granite, and frequently confused with quartz by name. It is a different product entirely and it is excellent. It also needs sealing.
Edges, thickness and waterfalls
Three decisions that change the feel more than the material does.
Thickness. Most slabs are 2cm or 3cm. A 3cm slab reads substantial and needs no build-up. A 2cm slab with a mitred edge can be built up to read as thicker — 4cm, 6cm, whatever the design wants — which is how the chunky counters in magazines are usually done. The mitre has to be well cut or the seam telegraphs.
Edge profile. Eased or a small square edge is what current work uses. The ogee and bullnose profiles that were standard for twenty years are one of the fastest ways to date an otherwise contemporary kitchen.
Waterfall ends. Still very much in demand on islands, and worth doing properly: the veining should run continuously from the horizontal into the vertical. That requires the fabricator to book-match the mitre. Done well it is the best detail in the kitchen. Done carelessly it is an obvious corner.
What to ask the fabricator
The brand on the slab matters less than who cuts it. Ask:
- Where will the seams fall, and can you show me on a drawing of my actual layout?
- Is the veining continuous through the slab, and will you dry-lay and match before cutting?
- What is the edge detail and, on a mitre, how is the seam handled?
- How is the sink mounted, and who templates — you, or somebody else?
- What is the remake policy if a piece arrives wrong?
Seam placement is the one people regret. A seam in the middle of the island in the sightline from the living room is a permanent irritation, and it is usually avoidable with a different slab layout that somebody has to think about in advance.
Go and look at the slab
The single most useful thing you can do: see the full slab in person before it is cut, not a four-inch sample.
Veining reads completely differently at scale. A sample shows you colour and nothing about movement, and on a ten-foot island you are looking at a great deal of movement. Most suppliers will let you walk the yard and tag the specific slabs going into your job. Do that.
The same goes for pairing. Bring the cabinet door sample and the floor sample with you and look at all three together under the same light — not in three different showrooms a week apart. Undertone mismatches are nearly impossible to spot any other way, and they are the thing that makes a room feel slightly off for reasons the owner can never quite name.
We do this with clients as a matter of course during selections, before anything is ordered. If you are weighing options for a kitchen in Palm Desert or anywhere else in the valley, get in touch and we will go through it.
Frequently asked questions
Is quartz better than granite?
For most kitchens, yes — it is non-porous so it never needs sealing, it is consistent slab to slab, and it resists chipping at edges. Granite wins on heat: quartz is resin-bound and a pan straight off the burner can scorch it permanently. Granite also wins outdoors, where UV breaks quartz resin down.
Can I use quartz for an outdoor kitchen?
No. UV degrades the resin binder and the colour shifts. Outdoor counters want natural stone, porcelain, or a product specifically rated for exterior use — even if that means not matching the indoor slab exactly.
What do current countertops look like?
Warm grounds, soft veining, low contrast, tonal with the cabinets rather than in opposition. The cold white slab with hard black veining is finished. Cambria's late-August 2026 releases — Quintessa, Merivale, St. Loxley, Wyncrest — are a fair read on the direction.
What is the difference between quartz and quartzite?
Completely different products with confusingly similar names. Quartz is engineered — ground stone bound in resin, non-porous, no sealing. Quartzite is natural stone, extremely hard, often harder than granite, and it does need sealing.
What is the most common countertop regret?
Seam placement. A seam sitting in the middle of the island in the sightline from the living room is permanent and usually avoidable with a different slab layout — but only if someone plans it in advance. Ask the fabricator to show you seam locations on a drawing of your actual layout.
Should I look at the full slab before ordering?
Yes, always. A four-inch sample shows colour and tells you nothing about movement, and on a large island movement is most of what you see. Most suppliers will let you walk the yard and tag the specific slabs for your job.
About the author
Darrin Coffin is the president, sunterra builders and a Palm Springs native. He has built across the Coachella Valley since 2007 and stays hands-on from the first walkthrough to the final punch list. More about Darrin →
